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I WANT TO REMOVE PAINT FROM...	I WANT TO REMOVE...
Architraves	Artex
Bannisters	Bitumastic Paint
Beams	Cardinal Red
Brickwork, Exterior	Carpet Adhesive
Brickwork, Interior	Emulsion Paint
Car Body Panels	Floor Sealer
Cast-Iron	Flooring Adhesive
Cast-Iron Fireplaces	Graffiti
Ceiling Roses	Kennitex
Ceilings	Lead Paint
Compo	Lead-Based Paint
Doors	Limewash
Engines	Masonry Paint
Faience	Oil-based Paint
Fibrous Plaster	Old Varnish
Flagstones	Paint Containing Lead
Floor Bricks	Polyurethane Varnish
Gesso	Scrumble Glaze
Glazed Tiles	Textured Paint � Exterior
Lincrusta	Textured Paint � Interior
Marble	Varnish
Marble Fire Surrounds	Wood Stain
Marble Fireplaces
Old Beams
Ornate Plasterwork
Panelling
Papier Maché
Plaster Ceilings - Old
Plaster Cornices
Plaster Walls - Modern
Plasterwork - Old
Pump Bodies
Quarry Tiles
Render
Skirting Boards
Slate
Slate Fireplaces
Stairs - Stone
Stairs - Wood
Stonework
Stucco
Terracotta
Tiles
Walls (interior)
Windows
Windows Steel
Woodwork

REMOVING PAINT FROM TIMBER BEAMS

WHICH PRODUCT?

For thick layers of indeterminate black coatings which have obviously been there for years, for gloss paints or other oil-bound coatings and some emulsion paints, Kling-Strip will give excellent results.
It was for precisely this job that we first produced Kling-Strip 30 years ago!

For emulsion paint applied directly onto otherwise unpainted wood, blackboard paints, polyurethane varnishes etc, Stripper NB-510 works well.

It is well worth trying both Kling-Strip and Stripper NB-510. In particular circumstances one will be more effective or easier to use than the other. See Trial Packs.

USEFUL TIP:

Whitewashed beams i.e. whitewash, not limewash do not need any sort of paint remover: whitewash is water-soluble, it will come off very easily with a scrubbing brush, water and a sponge. We have often seen builders spending frustrating hours with a wire brush trying to clean beams exposed in renovation work. The wood is dusty and dirty;.it needs a good wash. An ordinary scrubbing brush, water and a sponge will do a much better job in a fraction of the time and, unlike a wire brush, don't leave scratch marks in the timber! See Basic Principles.

HOW LONG WILL THE JOB TAKE?

For the average beamed ceiling with, say, a central beam with 12-14 joists on either side, the work on each joist, applying and washing off, will take approximately 1 hour's work from start to completely paint-free finish.

WILL THE PROCESS DARKEN THE WOOD?

After washing off the dissolved paint, give the wood time to dry to allow its true colour to show.

Medieval timbers are not generally darkened, although the colour of any timber may be altered by any paint-removal process. Old beams may naturally be any colour from grey to almost black. Often the colour of the wood can be lightened considerably with our Woodbleach WB-1 . The basic rule applies: do a test on a small area first. See Trial Packs.

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REMOVING PAINT FROM BRICKWORK

With our products you can completely remove the paint, even from soft red bricks, without marking, damaging or removing the face of the brick. The dissolved paint is simply washed from the pores of the brick. With no abrasives to pit the surface, no wire brushes to scratch it, brickwork can be left looking completely original, as if it had never been painted.

WHICH PRODUCT?

For masonry paints: Stripper NB-410 or Stripper NB-610
For oil-based paints: Stripper 4-F or Kling-Strip
For emulsion paints: Stripper NB-410 or Stripper NB-610
For textured coatings ("Kennitex" etc.): Strippers NB-410 or NB-610, sometimes 4-F
For bitumastic coatings: Stripper NB-510 or Stripper NB-410. Usually NB-510 but sometimes NB-410 works better. If the coating is very thick or is overlaid with other types of paint, try different dwell times, including applying as thickly as possible and leaving overnight ambient conditions need to be cool and windless. Do a test patch first!
See Limewash.

IMPORTANT POINTS

Do tests first. On larger projects, make sure as far as possible that the area tested is representative of the whole area.
The basic principle when removing paint or grime from brickwork is that the coating or dirt should be dissolved or softened and then washed off. Dirt and grime can often be softened adequately with water, while special products are available for stubborn or sulphated dirt (Please enquire). For washing off use a pressure-washer, but only hold the lance close enough to the surface to wash it, not so near that it damages the brick.
The use of any sort of blasting, abrasives, wire brushes etc. for removing paint will cause irreparable damage to brickwork.
The paint layer may comprise coats of different types of paint, necessitating the use of more than one paint-remover. (e.g. masonry paint over oil-based paint would require Stripper NB-410 followed by Stripper 4-F or Kling-Strip)
Some masonry paints leave a "pigment bloom" or shadow after being stripped. This is easily removed with a light application of Stripper NB-510

USEFUL TIPS

Stripper 4-F can be spray applied, dramatically reducing application time, with suitable airless spray equipment. (Please ask for details of specifications for airless sprayers).
For internal work on small areas, Kling-Strip is usually easier to use than Stripper 4-F
Our WASHVAC pressure- washer/vacuum cleaner attachment makes it possible to use a pressure washer in areas where the spray and runoff from a normal pressure-washer lance would be unacceptable.
Impervious exterior paint coatings are a common cause of what is often alarmingly rapid decay of exterior building surfaces, also of damp problems internally. If it is essential to repaint, consider using limewash or lime paint, which are highly vapour permeable. (We can supply both).

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REMOVING PAINT FROM CAR BODY PANELS

The tedious traditional scraping and sanding of one coat at a time can be eliminated with our products. Simply apply thickly to the surface, leave to work then wash off with a hot water pressure washer. Panels are left completely free of paint, ready for re-finishing.

Dwell times (to leave the product applied) will vary, depending on the thickness and type of paint coating. Specialised paint systems may require 2 or 3 hours.

Try comparative tests with Stripper NB-510 and Stripper NB-610 to see which performs best.

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REMOVING PAINT FROM CAST IRON

Our products enable the dissolved paint to be simply washed from the pores of the surface, leaving it completely free of paint, without the pitting which is often caused by abrasive systems.

WHICH PRODUCT?
For oil-based paints on cast iron fire surrounds, bannisters etc: Kling-Strip is extremely quick and easy for completely removing thick paint layers.
For oil-based paint from engineering items - pumps, engine blocks etc, use either Kling-Strip or Stripper 4-F. For other types of paint, contact us with your specific requirements.

USEFUL TIPS:
Do a test patch first (see instructions on data sheet)

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REMOVING COATINGS FROM FLOOR BRICKS, FLAGSTONES, QUARRY TILES ETC

WHICH PRODUCT?
Cardinal Red: Stripper NB-510
Oil-based Paint: Kling-Strip or Stripper 4-F
Floor Sealer: Stripper NB-510
Carpet Adhesive: Stripper NB-510 or Stripper NB-610

USEFUL TIPS
When using Stripper NB-510 or Stripper NB-610 on floors, pour the product over a small area, let it find its own level and leave it to work. When it has done so, use a bit of cardboard to squeegee the product to the next area � only a little of it has been in contact with the floor, the bulk of it was simply preventing drying out, so most of it is still reactive. Then immediately clean up the dissolved coatings with hot soapy water, a scrubbing brush and sponge. This washing element of the process is quicker with a hot water pressure-washer, where it is possible to use one. Where it is not, our Washvac attachment can often make it possible. See Basic Principles.

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REMOVING COATINGS FROM GLAZED TILES, FAIENCE, TERRACOTTA, ETC

With our products, the dissolved paint is simply washed from the surface; so dense, smooth or glazed surfaces are particularly easy to strip.

WHICH PRODUCT?
For oil-based paint: Kling-Strip or Stripper 4-F
For emulsion paint: Stripper NB-410 (exterior) or Stripper NB-610 (interior)
For masonry paint:Stripper NB-410
For bitumastic coatings: Stripper NB-510

USEFUL TIP:
Often Kling-Strip or Stripper 4-F will also work on emulsion paint, especially if it is over a coat of oil-based paint.

IMPORTANT POINTS:
Do a test on a small area first � try a couple of products and see which one works best. See Trial Packs.

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REMOVING PAINT FROM "MODERN" PLASTER - GYPSUM, BOARD FINISH ETC

WHICH PRODUCT?
For emulsion paints: Stripper NB-510 or Stripper NB-610
For oil based paints: Kling-Strip.
Textured paint finishes, 'Artex' etc comes off very well with Stripper NB-510 or Stripper NB-610. Try applying as thickly as possible and leaving overnight �ambient conditions need to be cool. It will often come off as a sheet. Do a test patch first!

USEFUL TIPS:
Do a test on a small area first. Try a couple of different products with different dwell times.See Basic Principles.
On flat surfaces, if preferred, the bulk of the dissolved paint can often be removed with a piece of stiff cardboard. If using a metal scraper, be careful not to gouge tracks in the plaster - the paint-remover should do the work!
On flat surfaces, wash off with warm water (soapy for the solvent-based products, plain for Kling-Strip), scouring cloths ("Scotchbrite" etc), and a sponge. See Basic Principles.

IMPORTANT POINTS:
Do not try to remove paint from "dry lining" � plasterboard which does not have a finishing coat of plaster � it will go very soggy!

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REMOVING PAINT FROM ORNATE PLASTERWORK

WHICH PRODUCT?
The thick layers of distemper and emulsion, which often completely clog and obscure the fine detail of ornate plaster cornices, friezes, ceiling roses etc., can be very effectively removed with Kling-Strip.

Textured paint finishes, 'Artex' etc comes off very well with Stripper NB-510 or Stripper NB-610. Try applying as thickly as possible and leaving overnight �ambient conditions need to be cool. It will often come off as a sheet. Do a test patch first!

USEFUL TIPS:
Because the coating layer to be removed is often in excess of 12mm (1/2") thick in the crevices, contractors involved in this sort of job tend to give Kling-Strip a dwell time of 5 to 7 days to work through. With such coating thicknesses it is important to ensure that the product is applied particularly thickly. Before repainting, make sure that the surface is completely dry and free from any efflorescence. The appearance of efflorescence usually indicates that the washing off of dissolved paint residues has not been thorough enough.Use an alkali-resistant primer.

IMPORTANT POINTS:
Plaster types can vary considerably. As always, do a test on a small area first to ensure that there are no ill effects. Make sure that the substrate (the surface underneath the paint) is indeed plaster and not "gesso" or "compo", "papier mach", "Lincrusta". etc. "Gesso" and "compo" will be softened by Kling-Strip, but are usually not affected by by Stripper NB-610 or Stripper NB-410. See Basic Principles. Papier maché, "Lincrusta" and embossed paper cannot be economically stripped.

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REMOVING PAINT FROM RENDER

Our products enable the removal of multiple coats of paint from render and stucco without the use of damaging abrasives. The dissolved paint is simply washed from the surface, leaving it completely free of paint.

WHICH PRODUCT?
For masonry paints: Stripper NB-410 or Stripper NB-610
For oil-based paints: Kling-Strip
For emulsion paints: Stripper NB-410 or Stripper NB-610
For textured coatings ("Kennitex" etc.): Strippers NB-410 or NB-610, sometimes 4-F
For bitumastic coatings: Stripper NB-510 or Stripper NB-410. Usually NB-510 but sometimes NB-410 works better. If the coating is very thick or is overlaid with other types of paint, try different dwell times, including applying as thickly as possible and leaving overnight � ambient conditions need to be cool and windless. Do a test patch first!
See Limewash.

IMPORTANT POINTS
Do tests first. On larger projects, make sure that the area tested is representative of the whole area.

The paint layer may comprise coats of different types of paint, necessitating the use of more than one paint-remover. (e.g. masonry paint over oil-based paint would require Stripper NB-410 followed by Kling-Strip)

USEFUL TIPS

Our WASHVAC pressure- washer/vacuum cleaner attachment makes it possible to use a pressure washer in areas where the spray and runoff from a normal pressure-washer lance would be unacceptable.
Impervious exterior paint coatings are a common cause of what is often alarmingly rapid decay of exterior building surfaces, also of damp problems internally. If it is essential to repaint, consider using limewash or lime paint, which are highly vapour permeable. (We can supply both).

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REMOVING PAINT FROM STEEL WINDOWS

The often heavy encrustation of paint on steel windows, being usually oil-based, is easily removed with Kling-Strip to give a completely paint-free finish. Much quicker than the hours of tedious scraping necessary with other methods, and avoids the broken panes which inevitably accompany the use of blowlamps and hot air guns!

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REMOVING PAINT FROM STONEWORK

Unlike abrasive or mechanical systems, our products are well suited to removing paint from internal and external stonework. Only the paint is removed, not the surface of the stonework. The dissolved paint is simply washed from the pores of the surface, leaving it completely free of paint, so the surface is left intact.

Our paint-removers are used on all sorts of stonework, from columns to quoins, from staircases to fireplaces, from vaults to windows, in everything from limestone to marble, slate to sandstone.